Japanese Auction Sheet
On a massive scale, the Japanese auction system is in operation.
140,000+ vehicles and more than 80 auctions every week
This Japanese Auction Guide explains how everything operates.
To view vehicles up for auction now and in the past, use our online auction search.
To receive daily email updates, try our Auction Alerts System for FREE.
See How Auctions Operate to gain a better understanding of the procedure.
Recognize the classification system and acronyms used on a Japanese auction sheet.
How to examine and bid on vehicles is covered in Preparing to Bid at Auction.
Anytime you require additional assistance or guidance, get in touch with us.
Watch a typical Japanese auction in action in the video below below. Most vehicles are up for auction for roughly 10 seconds before being either sold or passed in (reserve price not met).
Basics of Auction
As numbers and codes are employed, the fundamental information on Japanese auction sheets is easy to understand.
The language of choice, performance tweaks, and brand names is English.
The damage displayed will frequently be repeated in the Japanese comments to the left of the car diagram.
Our translators translate into English the pertinent sentences from the positive and negative parts of the Japanese auction sheet.
While the car is stopped, they start the engine and inspect the transmission.
The vehicle is photographed once more, including the underbody, interior, exterior, and any modifications.
Purchasing a vehicle involves much more than just looking at the auction grade.
To choose only the best vehicles in this situation, experience is required.
For additional information on the auction inspection and bidding process, see How to buy and What We Do.
Explanation of Japanese Auction Sheet Codes
Each auction uses a grading report or Japanese auction sheet verification that includes information about the vehicle’s specifications as well as its condition.
The reporting style varies a little bit between auction houses, but the essential details are always the same.
The overall grade of a vehicle is given from 0 to 6, with 6 being the best, and the interior grade is given from A to D. (A is the best).
You might see a 4 B B, for instance, because some auctions give an additional A to D grade for bodily condition.
Interiors with an A grade have to be almost brand new. B and C are frequently used to denote great cleanliness and ordinary condition, respectively.
A C is still considered to be in very good condition for some auctions while it is considered to be filthy, has cigarette burns, or has significant wear and tear. C is typically expected for a vehicle older than 10 years, but would be cause for concern on a 2-year-old vehicle.
D typically stands for extremely messy, filthy, smoke-affected, or race-ready.
A modest accident repair can also result in a grade of 3 or 3.5.
Repairs are typically indicated with a XX on the panels that are damaged, but they can also be concealed in the Japanese-language notes section on the verify auction sheet.
When it is clear that only the bumpers or front panels have been repainted and that any part replacements have not altered the front structure, very minor repairs to the front panels may be taken into consideration.
If there is any ambiguity, we will steer clear of the vehicle because it simply isn’t worth the chance of having your compliance workshop reject it.
Typically, we only source cars that rate a 4 or higher on the Japanese auction sheet.
Occasionally, a lower grade vehicle might be worth taking into account. For instance, some significant bodykit/bumper dings and scratches might result in a 3.5 grade for an otherwise nice vehicle.
Even though this cosmetic damage can be simple to repair, buying a newer car will save you a lot of money.
A grade of 2 denotes severe wear and tear or water damage.
Grade 1 denotes “major changes,” which may include performance enhancements like larger turbos, a switch from an automatic to a manual transmission, an engine replacement, or preparation for racing.
In order to identify the automobiles that need further investigation, it is necessary to carefully check the online car auction and the accompanying images for any interesting vehicles.
Our agent at the auction will physically check any items that appear promising to ensure their condition, and further images will be taken.
We then get in touch with you to talk about your budget and condition.
For more information on the auction inspection and bidding process, see What We Do.
6 New \s5 brand-new with no defects
4.5 Very clean with a small paint flaw on one panel
4 Minor paint blemishes are present on multiple panels.
3.5 The panel and paint need a little repair.
3 Unsatisfactory general condition
2 Significant panel damage, rust, or water damage
1 Significant improvements in performance or mechanical changes
A, 0, R Repairing damage from accidents
All repaired vehicles are identified by the letters A, 0, R, and variants (RS, R0, RA, and A1), with RA, A1, and R1 denoting minor repairs. We immediately rule out any vehicles for SEVS import that have repairs in the back or any dents in structural members like chassis rails because they are excluded for Australia under SEVS.
*** Serious mechanical or structural defect, such as an engine issue, existing accident damage, or a fire
A brand-new with no defects
B very nice and clean
C Average / in good condition for age, with normal wear and tear D Significant wear and tear, inside rips or tears, or cigarette burns or smell Options
SR Alloy wheels and a sunroof
Pseudo-Static Power Steering
Vehicle Diagram XX for PW Power Windows and AB Airbag Due to repairs, panels have either been painted or replaced.
It may indicate that the painted portion of the affected panel has not been applied as smoothly as the factory paint.
However, there are some instances where it is impossible to tell with the naked eye whether paintwork has been done, even when marked with a W.
The auction staff is human, and they occasionally label panels W when they are unsure. The use of W or W, with W1 being the least obvious, W2, and W3.
A1 is a small scratch, so ordinarily you would anticipate that it would buff out or require only a minor touch-up.
A2 is a medium scratch that can be seen through the top coat of paint and is difficult to conceal.
If you want to fully address A3, which is a deep scratch like a significant scrape or an intentional key mark, paintwork will unquestionably be necessary.
U pock mark
Just a little dent like you could find in a parking lot.
The size of the dent is indicated by the numbers U1 through U4, with 1 being the smallest.
B greater dents
Compared to pin dents, these are more severe. They range in size from B1 to B4, and they are quite obvious dents.
On the windscreen, there may be markings like a G, X, or even an A. This typically denotes a minor stone chip or scratch, which are frequently fairly small—roughly the size of a pinhead—and difficult to see.
They are the kinds of things that most automobiles accumulate over time, so even if you notice them, it doesn’t necessarily mean the windscreen needs to be replaced.
The letter Y cracks
Y1 to Y4. Typically found in bodykits or lights, and rarely a serious problem because repair or replacement is relatively easy.
P P1 to P4 have paint damage. Sun damage, polishing, peeling, crazing, or poor paintwork can cause fading, scratches, or color changes.
S / C / Corrosion / Rust
Typically, S and C1 to C4 are used.
A minor stone chip with some surface rust or a spot of corrosion on the edge of a sunroof that might be easily repaired are both indicated by a S or C1 on the body.
In other instances, S noted in the section of critical comments might represent severe underbody rust. The letter C on the wheel arches indicates severe corrosion from use in snowy environments.
Even grade 4.5 vehicles can be rusted, so physical inspections for rust are conducted whether or not it is noted on the used car auctions.